I have seen Rajasthan before, or so I thought. My father was in the army and spent many years there. Then, we traveled by jeep/ bus and marveled at the forts & palaces. Rajasthan needs no introduction. It's no wonder the most popular tourist destination in India for it's rich culture, splendid & magnificent forts, palaces, havelis, chattris & mandirs, awe inspiring history and absolutely great food. Millions journey to Pushkar mela alone from all over the world. Before the trip I didn't know what more to expect as I spent some time gathering info from people who've been there on a Royal Enfield.
What I saw this time I had never seen & felt before. My bike had opened up a completely new Rajasthan to me, and I don't remember ever feeling so happy & excited on my last visits.Starting from Jaipur, first to catch my eye - the girls are so beautiful and dressed in their Rajasthani embroidered kurtas – irresistible!
Then there is the beautiful Hawa Mahal. At sunrise it's an irresistible sight. As I was trying to find my way through it's ornate streets – which are ruled by cyclists and have mandirs in middle of the lanes! - a rider pulls me up and offers to show me around. I guess we are brothers who just met.In the morning I set out to find a place not on any map – Mahansar. Local folk lore has it that a bottle of their wine can get an entire group tipsy. The roads I take from here have very little traffic, smooth tarmac and always were very exciting. Not a part of it ever got boring. At the end of this trip I was left feeling I had found another elusive riders paradise.
I head out to Sikar. This stretch is actually green with farming. Then I turn towards Nawalgarh. This is not a popular tourist place, yet here are the best elaborately painted havelis and chattris. From here the ride becomes even more interesting as I leave the state highway and ride roads through villages. Surprisingly even these roads have great tarmac. The roads twists and I take numerous left & right trying to find Mahansar relying on the villager’s directions. Through my ride I actually ended up talking to a lot of villagers discovering roads and places. Some of these roads aren't on any map. As I find Mahansar I check into Narayan Niwas Castle. It's actually a castle that has old style rooms befitting a castle. And Mahansar has a haveli painted in gold!
What a way to spend the night after a good ride. I happily book the castle for Royal Enfield Tour of Rajasthan.In the morning I set out to Ratangarh. I can catch the national highway that passes close by but I don't want to take that route, instead there’s a forest close by and I hope to see some deers there. As I pass through it - I do spot a few deers and guess what these roads are great too. I actually should stop saying that, but as a rider thats how happy I felt. I actually ended up cruising the entire route at good speeds, through great places and where ever I stopped the food was excellent. I hit NH11 near Ratangarh and take a short break at Desert Resort “PLEASE SILLOW DAWN”. Then I speed off to Bikaner and here's another surprise – national highways can be so fun too and here I was trying to avoid them because they have always been boring and tiring. But I don't want to miss out on the Rajasthan I never saw so I'll catch interior roads again after Bikaner.
The land scape starts to change slowly to more dry and sandy. But there are still plenty of large shrubs and some trees. I won't be hitting sand dunes for the next 2 days. As I speed off and I'm having so much fun my chain falls off! Fun is what I wanted wasn't it! Luckily it's just the chain lock that’s replaced quickly and off I zoom again. Just before Bikaner there are Camel Farms, but I don't spend much time there as I'll get plenty of camels at Sam and I can’t wait to have the famous rasgullas and sit down for a drink with Bikaner bhujia. Bikaner is also famous for Laxmi Niwas palace and Junagarh Fort which is the best in Rajasthan. One room is ornate with 32 kg of gold.Though I'm going to Jaisalmer I don't want to take that highway and instead chart a far more interesting route. First up is Karni Mata temple where devotees worship an incarnation of goddess Durga. Its more famous for its sea of rats. Best time to visit is early morning when they come out to feed on the offerings. From here it gets really tricky. I want to reach Siana and have to go right on a small road that’s unmarked. As luck has it on that very turn I stop to ask direction from villagers waiting for a truck. This route is fun, there are camels in road and it passes through many interior villages.
Here the children are actually scared to see me with full riding gear on a loud bike! That's a first! I try stopping a few times for pictures but every time they run away! No questions asked! In one village I finally found a brave boy and after a l let him use the camera, more than courage the others found curiosity. Here I managed to get a good snap. Women also move away if I try to approach them, well I don't want to get beat by these big bearded men so I stay away. Then comes the best part – Sand dunes. I found them much before Sam! Some of these dunes are still active. Here the sand covers the road at many places. At first I'd slow down and cross with a lot of caution and little struggle then I got the trick. Man that was fun. Now I'm trying to head towards a place called Kechan where many migratory birds including cranes gather. It seems
I've migrated too early but this place will be full with 10000s in October. Great. And to my surprise theres also an old haveli here full of peacocks! As I head towards Pokhran there's a 100s of people walking along the road. Well it turns out all these people are walking to Ramdewra temple . Some of them walk from Gujrat and take 2 months! Actually I've been noticing big groups walking ever since I started from Jaipur but never gave attention till now. Close to Ramdewra I get pulled up and offered lungar(food)! Shri Ramdewra is believed to be reincarnation of Vishnu after Krishna and its more famous among tourists for its army of clay horses. I pass Pokaran (the nuclear test site) and catch NH15 that is a landing strip that extend for 110 kms till Jaisalmer. I've heard aircraft suspension make more noise than my bike. Wast open land starts and cross winds start blowing as the landing strips stretches on with less vehicles than inside an airport. All of us have wished for this sometime but I never knew I could have it better. Along this route I see few deer the size of big cats! Another temple up ahead is devoted to Shri Bhadriya, a saint who spent solitary confinement for many years and transformed a village into a modern town. It has a library devoted to all religions. Then I enter the beautiful city of Jaisalmer.
What a treat todays ride was! Jaisalmeer is so beautiful with Pattuan ki Haveli, Nathmalji ki Haveli, Royal Burrial Chattris & a Fort built from Jurassic stone that we will spend 2 days here and as a treat we've booked Narayan Niwas Palace.After Jaisalmer we will set out on a historical ride to Tanot with a small diversion of course. The place is called Mondha and along this route there are plenty of sand grouses (if you manage to spot them that is) and large lizards. From Mondha to Ramgarh the great tarmac (I can't mention that enough!) roads winds along a big canal. A small dip is welcome. This route is very green and her I saw a Neel gai, large deers and the queer little one too. What else must be hiding in those trees? Advise: fuel up at Jaisalmer because for next 330 kms there's no fuel available. Ramgarh has Asia's tallest TV tower that was built after the '71 war to broadcast into Pakistan. This tower is visible from 15kms and most probably even before if we step over the greenery. That I never tried. This route from Jaipur throws up so many unexpected surprises and treats I couldn't help smile like a child.
The best ones are yet to come though! At Ramgarh I stop at the BSH HQ to inquire about permission for our group to ride along border route. Once that is in place I hit Tanot. None of the shells that fell on Tanot mandir during '71 war exploded. This mandir is run by the BSF and all of them are devotees here. As luck would have it, army is conducting exercises along the road ahead and I must spend the night here, so I get to attend the satsang. Food is available if you inform early so that’s the first thing you should do. I spend a great night on the roof with 50 other devotees and leave my riding gear in the guard room.
Next morning I start of early to Longewala and here is the big surprise. Imagine huge sand dunes that have been stabilized, now imagine a road that moves up and down and around these. Well it’s the fun that can only be felt. There are no villages here but Sheppard who live in small hut settlements called Dhonis. Since there is no water here they have built many small clay containers so that their flock can drink while grazing. Longewala is the famous battle site where a group of 300 men defeated an entire battalion. There's a memorial here erected to honor those braves. This is the only place where you can click pics. After an interrogation and prove my identity at the check post I ride on this border route. The plan is to ride this entire border route and reach Sam through a shortcut and interesting route. More interrogation at Ghotaru and Asu Tar check post.Imp: If you have a GPS, turn it off and put it in your bag before Tanot. Don't forget to check in at BSF check posts at Tanot, Longewala, Ghotaru & Asu Tar and don't jump any check post. Also stopping along the route and taking photographs is restricted. Dhonis are very sensitive about their women and privacy.After that I thought I was back well in India till a few kms ahead some villagers standing in the middle of the road stopped me and caught my bike! “What happened?”, Villagers “we got a call from check post behind to stop you”, “Ha Ha get serious”, Villagers: “We are serious, get off your bike and speak to him over phone!” They way they held on to my bike I guess they were serious so I got off, then one of them went out to get the inspector as network stopped when I wanted to speak! Fishy! Oh well, so I was offered tea and we started chatting. As the inspector arrived I understood that seeing the way I was armored up in riding gear and going “very” fast he thought I rode across the border and jumped all those dunes into India!! After some more interrogation I was let off.From here starts the shortcut to Sam. The moving sand dunes actually start much before Sam on this route with some big sand crossings on road! Even Jeeps don't ply here, only camel carts. Well I've come to far and spent too much fuel to change the plan now. I've got just about enough fuel to make it via the shortcut (or so I think because I don't really know the distance or how this route will end up)! The plan is to stick to the road and “fly” over all the sand dunes while keeping millage speed of 60kph. It worked, I reached Sam. Now these are called sand dunes! Here we camp at this amazing location overlooking the dunes. Here we also organize camel rides over those dunes followed by a gala dinner with cultural dances, singers and music around bonfire.Next stop – Akal Fosil Park – where ancient trees have turned rock hard. From here I take another village road via Sankra to Shaitrawa. This route is full of villages, Dhonis, sheep, goats, cows & camels. Here a villager waved his stick at me; I guess it's because of my great looks. Welcome back to earth. This is also a shortcut to Jodhpur which turned out to be better than I expected according to my map. After Shaitrawa here's a small surprise as I catch a brand new 4 lane highway thats lit up up like Diwali lights with my headlight. From here on there are Chilli fields till Jodhpur. What an amazing city. I ride into the heart and find a 250 yr old guest house right at the base of the fort. These streets are small and can barely accomodate2 bikes. This place is a maze with 100s of small streets and it will be very easy to get lost. Thank god for my GPS, at least I can follow my bread-crumb trail. This is a very old part of Jodhpur. In the morning I visit the Fort and Chatris that is compared to Taj.Next day starts with the beautiful Umid palace where the Highnesses still live. Today I'm off to Mt Abu but I want to go via Sardarsamand. Avoiding the highway, this is a nice back to earth ride till I take a right about 30kms and here on I see Chikaras & Black Bucks. As I reach Sardarsamand theres a great palace rising above the trees. Well I never expected that, so let’s check it out. The watch man is a bit reluctant to let me in because the Highnesses are also here, but as I inquire the palace also has a restaurant and he lets me in. And what a treat this is, I can write endlessly about it. The palace is tall and beautiful. From here I can see far. Theres a lake at its base and large forest lands. There are trophy heads from hunts and stuffed tigers displayed all over. This palace is very tastefully & lavishly done up and I've never seen a palace from inside like this before. Maybe thats because it still houses the Highness family. I'm not sure how to address them. Here I have the most delicious mutton kheema with bhakre ki roti. This is called dining with kings! (Though there aren't any sitting with me – there are probably busy somewhere).After more country roads till Sirohi (I'm still mesmerized by the Palace experience) I catch the Ahmadabad expressway till Abu road and ride the ghats. Mt Abu is going to be bursting (literally) with people from Gujrat & Rajasthan during Diwali and that should be a sight during Tour of Rajasthan. For that Diwali weekend Hotel rates are up 4 times and even then its completely booked! As luck would have it, still managed to book a heritage resort in the center of attractions. Here I hear there is a route direct to Sirohi but only a broken trekking trail. Our bikes have ridden through trails before so this should be fun. I find the trail soon enough at sunset point and realize that it's actually cemented – great. But it's got some steps in between and my bike might not clear it. Back at sunset point peanuts wala tell me that some local boys have tried it though they had to carry the bike over some steps. I'm going to do this route but not this time and not alone. It will be fun like hell. I'll come back.As I ride down Mt Abu it’s a bit disappointing that the ghats are over, then I never knew what lay in store. As I test my bikes top speed on the expressway to Udipur, I can't help notice the hill ranges extending far out - wow. What a view. Then something else takes my notice – there are huts along the road side like the Dhonis, but the entire village is on the road – WOW! Men are playing cards on the divider, children are playing on the road and learning to cycle, the women are there chatting, the dogs are there, cows, sheep, goats they are all there on expressway for many kms. I guess we are their reality TV! Slowly as the villagers dwindle away these hills turn to hills with Jungles. I stop at a place with a great view and admire. I didn't know then but it so happens that after Udaipur I'll come back here and ride into the same hills & jungles! At Udaipur there's an afternoon halt planned at the beautiful Lake palace. From there the plan is to go to Kumbalgarh. Not by the highway but through those hills. Somehow nobody can give me the right directions and I ride kms on kms trying to find the right route. I do happen to chance upon some monuments but I've seen better till now. By the time I finally figure out the right route its dark and the villagers stop me – there are panthers in the jungle. So I spend that night at a dhaba – sleeping with full riding gear close to my bike! It was well worth it – the route is a treat with single lane, no traffic ghats winding through these lush hills. I actually want more of it, so I try some routes going off and chance upon a a small fort and museum dedicate to Maharan Pratab and Cheetak. Legend has it (and our history books) that the rivers ran red with blood in battle and hence the name – Haldi Ghati. Then I try more routes; Himalayan Odyssey is a tough ride through the mountains, but these roads are so darn FUN, I haven't ridden such a route ever! Kumbalgarh has the second most important fort of Rajasthan, more than that it has Bedwal mehel that looks over these hills. There's a sanctuary where we can spot panthers and if we are very lucky we could spot them on road. They've never harmed a human till date but I can’t say them same for the live stock. Heading down Kumbalgarh I head of to the famous Ranakapur Jain temple and the route just keeps getting better! Note: if you are riding ghat roads, along a clear beautiful stream, through jungles and you see a rock that looks like our ancestor's skull – you're on the right track. After the Jain temple head straight towards the next line of hills in the distance. Don't get on the highway. Then starts the beautiful boulder hills! Films should be made here – but better leave it untouched. Here the route got even better and I saw lot of animals and creepy crawlers roaming around – it seems people hardly ever pass through. Don't forget to fill up fuel at Udaipur. My fuel level is running low again, but I don't mind getting stuck here. I catch the short highway to Ajmeer at Beawar and fuel up there. I had a great last two days. I'm coming back here sure as hell. We'll stay two nights at Ajmeer to attend Pushkar Mela. Ajmeer to Pushkar is 15kms over a hill and it will be great fun to ride that with the entire troupe.Next Day I head out to Sambhar lake via Parwatsar. Sambha lake is supposed to be a large dry salt lake and I'm really looking forward to it. I want to ride end to end of Sambhar but that proves to be very difficult, first I cross over lots of sand to start from one end then as I start off on the lake it turns out to be slushy. Well obviously because it was raining yesterday and there are salt farms here! There has to be a way though. So I get back on the road and try every path into the lake to find a possible start point. I found one and mark it on the GPS. Then I circumnavigate the lake by road (hated that - can’t even see the lake from the road!) and try to find a good exit point. That was tough – every time I'd ask a villager he'd give me that dumb look. I had to experiment and that did get me into a few tight spots! But thats that and I do find a possible exit point. Now time to fuel up – should have done that earlier! I guess it’s easy to get distracted when I'm having so much fun! So I head out towards Jaipur, fill up and time to connect the dots. Guess what? There is a mandir on a hillock inside the lake and a used path (more conservative though) leading up to it. Now why couldn't somebody tell me that! The thing about salt lakes is that it looks hard & dry but it’s very difficult to tell whats underneath. I've already learned the very hard way in Greater Rann. I manage to connect both the dots with the mandir in between. The lake is still a bit soft and tyre sinks a bit but this route everybody should be able to do plus it will dry by October. I attempt it again at full throttle and my confidence soars so I get more adventurous. Then I want more and I try to got more deeper into the lake … and then as I'm finishing my run … disaster strikes. The bike starts to sink in … the key is not to lose momentum, but it’s difficult to turn back in mud without loosing momentum. Anyway I turn long way round and as the bike slows I add two feet drive. The last hundred meters were very very tough with the bike packing up mud and my boots starting to weigh a ton. That wasn't enough either – 10meters short of dry spot we come to a full stop! The thing about this mud is that it's actually clay. Well this is a familiar situation with not a soul in sight, not even an insect, mosquito or fly in sight :). Well it isn't so bad, the bike has the power, if I can remove the clay. Because it's a dry salt lake there's not even a stick. Another thing about “dry” salt lakes is that whatever water pockets it has are concentrate acidic, they have a foul smell, emit fumes and burns on skin. I've seen blue and green before, this was dark purple and mirroring the sky! Another thing about dry salt lakes is that its a flat land that extends into the horizon and the sunset is amazing that I've only seen a couple of times. Back to my bike I painfully dig out all the clay from the tyres by hand. Theres more clay then my entire luggage just from one side of my rear tyre. Once the clay is out the bike runs those 10meters like a breeze. A watch the sunset as I wait for the clay on my hands to dry. It's a yellow sunset with a small sun that sets much over the horizon and a spectacle my camera fails to capture. Then I ride the last 80kms to Jaipur and mess up the hotel room :).What a treat this ride has been. Its just been so pure fun and exciting.
---KD